Kenya continues to top the list as the biggest importer of second-hand clothing which is popularly known as ‘Mitumba’ in Africa, with the industry playing a crucial role in the country’s economy. The sector has created thousands of jobs in handling, tailoring, retail, and distribution, while also increasing fashion accessibility for many Kenyans who have a good taste for vintage charm and trendy outfits.
According to a report by the Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC), Kenya imported $202 million worth of used clothing in 2022, making it the fourth-largest importer globally after Pakistan, the United Arab Emirates, and Chile.
The report further shows that Kenya accounted for 3.57% of the global used clothing imports, making it the top importer in Africa, followed by Ghana ($164M), Tanzania ($148M), and Angola ($127M). The entire African second-hand clothing market was valued at $1.75 billion in 2022.
Interestingly, some countries in Africa do not find any purpose of fashion in the Mitumba like our neighboring Ethiopia which completely banned second hand-clothing in 2017 in order to boost local manufacturing within its borders.
Despite the economic benefits, the trade in mitumba (second-hand clothing) has faced significant policy debates in Kenya. In 2016, the East African Community (EAC) proposed a ban on second-hand clothing imports by 2019 to protect the local textile industry. However, opposition from the United States, which cited violations of free trade agreements under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), forced Kenya to reconsider the move.
To counteract the flood of imports, the Kenyan government, alongside other EAC nations, opted to increase taxes on second-hand clothing instead. Rwanda, for instance, raised import duties from $0.20 to $2.50 per kg in 2018 to promote local textile production. The mitumba trade remains a contentious issue in Kenya, with some stakeholders advocating for policies that balance the protection of local manufacturers while maintaining the livelihoods of millions who depend on the second-hand clothing business.
